The History of Emperor Uda at Ninna-ji Temple (仁和寺), Kyoto
Ninna-ji Temple is one of the most spectacular and historic temples in Kyoto Japan. In a city with over 2000 temples, shrines, castles and palaces, Ninna-ji Temple has one particular unique feature: For almost 1000 years, the temple’s head priest often came from the imperial family lineage.
Just a few minutes walk South West from the famous Kinkaku-ji Temple (the Temple of the Golden Pavilion), Ninna-ji Temple’s history actually predates Kinkaku-ji by over 500 years. Inside these walls, time seems unimportant, like a flower pedal in the wind. That’s probably how I found myself locked inside after closing by accident! Too tranquil, you may forget to leave!
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- Main Corridor into Ninna-ji Temple
Entrance Fee, Opening Hours and Services
The temple is open usually from 9am to 5pm during the tourist season from March to November with tickets available up to 30 minutes before closing time. The temple is an extremely popular destination during cherry blossom season from March to April. There is no admission fee for visitors outside of the cherry blossom season, it’s free!
Let’s be honest, cherry blossom season is stunning and incredibly beautiful. It’s often why people choose to travel to Japan when they do. It’s 500 Yen to enter during cherry blossom season and well worth the relaxing stroll through the gardens in full bloom.
Cherry blossoms are not native to Japan, rather they were brought over from the Himalayan mountains and bred over time into ornamental flowers. The largest and most beautiful cherry blossom trees in Japan are often inside the ancient temple complexes that are hundreds if not a thousand years old.
Ninna-ji Temple Services
- Entrance to Goten Palace & Gardens 500 Yen ($5 USD)
- Entrance to Reiho-kan Museum 500 Yen ($5 USD)
- Ancient tea house 1000 Yen ($10 USD) per person. Reservation at least 7 day prior with a 5 person minimum tour size.
- Cherry Blossom Entrance Fee 500 Yen ($ 5 USD)
Photo Gallery of Ninna-ji Temple (仁和寺)
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- Ninna-ji Temple
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- Ninna-ji Temple Garden
History of Ninna-ji Temple (仁和寺)
The history of Ninna-ji Temple dates back to the 9th century Heian period (794-1185 AD). Today, Ninna-ji Temple is listed as one of 17 Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto. The first temple’s construction was ordered by Emperor Koko who would die in 887 before it’s completion in 888 at the beginning of his son Emperor Uda’s reign.
Emperor Uda abdicated his throne to his young son in 897 at 31 years old. As we discussed in our Osaka-Castle article, the imperial throne was a very ceremonial and had a limited role in the actual governance of Japan. The responsibility to rule over Japan “in the name of the emperor” belonged to the Shogun, a Clan Leader that held power.
Before the total unification of Japan that would follow centuries later, Kyoto was the seat of power in a loosely collected group of feudal domains ruled by powerful military Clans. These domains stretched from the island of Kyushu, along the inland sea to the Kansai Plain (Osaka to Kyoto) and eventually to the Northern Frontier of Honshu (North of modern-day Tokyo). Hokkaido and Northern Honshu belonged to an indigenous tribe called “Ainu” or “Emishi”. Japanese clans would fights over the shogunate rather than the actual imperial crown, a clever system that ensured Japan’s Imperial Family becoming the oldest continuous lineage of any monarchs in the world stretching back 660 BCE, almost 2700 years and 125 monarchs.
The temple complex was burned down during the Onin civil war in the 15 century, the same civil war that led to the beginning of the “Sengoku Jidai” period, and the emergence of the epic samurai warrior class and battles. Today’s temple structure dates back to the 17th century reconstruction.
Emperor Uda (宇多天皇) The First Monzeki
Three years after his abdication, in 900 AD at age 34 retired Emperor Uda entered the priesthood and began an Imperial Family tradition that would last nearly 1000 years. Until 1869, Japan’s Imperial family has made a tradition of sending sons to become the head priest (Monzeki) of the temple complex.
This transition from Emperor to head priest was extremely strategic as it allowed the retired emperor to have some freedom from the Shogun and a base of operation to influence Japanese politics from outside the imperial court. This trend of early retirement combined with second or third sons becoming the successor “Monzeki” of Ninna-ji Temple was a clever way of essentially taking them out of contention for the crown and family infighting. It is similar to the European Monarchs that made the second sons join the clergy, or Game of Thrones with sons joining the Maesters.
Emperor Uda died at Ninna-ji Temple at age 65. However as a member of the Imperial Family and former Emperor, his is now buried at the “Seven Imperial Tombs” at Ryoan-ji Temple in Kyoto.
Directions to Ninna-ji Temple
By Bike from wherever you want!
The most enjoyable way to reach Ninna-ji Temple in the North Western sector of Kyoto-Shi is by Bike. I seriously recommend the 45 min- to 1 hour ride from Kyoto Central Station.
I’ll repeat this in every article: Cycling in Kyoto is super easy and the best way to get around. Stop when and where you want, use the great bike infrastructure of this relatively flat city to your advantage. It’s affordable, but more importantly it’s just far more enjoyable to pedal your way through Japan’s narrow streets! Fun for all ages.
- Leave your hotel or hostel and find your nearest bike rental shop (By Kyoto Station)
- From Gion, it’s just over 1 hour by bike to the North Western part of Kyoto-Shi.
- Really recommend biking North along the Kame-gawa river that you cross on your way to the Gion district. Cut over at the river’s fork to pass by the Imperial Palace on your way west to Ninna-ji Temple
- A journey to Ninna-ji is not far from Kinkaku-ji and passes many other famous sites on the way. See the map below.
By Bus from Kyoto Station
- Take bus 26 (市営-Shiei) from Kyoto Station Bus loop
- 36 Minutes on the bus and 230 Yen ($2.30 USD)
- Get off 24 stops later at 御室仁和寺 (Oinani Ninna-ji Stop)
- Just tell the bus driver: “Ninna-ji iku Onegaishimasu” meaning “Ninna-ji go please”
- Most direct route to the temple
By Train from Kyoto Station
- Take the San-in Line from Kyoto Central
- 10 minutes on the train and 200 Yen ( $USD)
- Get off at Hanazono Station
- Walk 1.6 Kms North to Ninna-ji Temple
- Easiest Route to the temple
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